Autocom Installation, Page 7

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The Autocom comes with power wires that are several feet long. Since I was installing it so close to my power supply, I had to cut 'em. However, I did leave a bit of extra wire attached (you'll see the extra red power wire folded back along the bike in some pictures). This is so I can pull out the Autocom for maintenance, or in case of a boneheaded mistake I had some options. The black wire is routed under the subframe rail through a convenient hole.

Wires ready to be soldered

Snip, snip, and the job was done. I stripped a bit of insulation off of the new ends and tightly twisted the black (ground) one. I wrapped the exposed red wire around the exposed black/gray taillight wire. Then I tinned the black wire and soldered the red wire into place. It's a bit hard to see the difference between these two pictures, but in this second one the exposed wires have a silvery tint to them from the solder. If you don't know what tinning is, it's just pre-soldering a component before attaching it to anything.

Everything soldered up

I was feeling good now. I crimped and soldered the provided ground connector on to my tinned ground wire, and wrapped the wiring harness back up with the provided rubbery tape.

Ground connector soldered to negative lead

At this point I was nearly finished. I removed the chassis screw and trapped the ground ring with it.

Electrically complete wiring job

I ran another helmet test, cycling the ignition and hearing the unit powering up and down. I won't insult you with more pictures of me, but I was happy as a clam. I replaced the zip ties I had cut, and I was essentially done, with the exception of some tidying up work.

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